Buyer's Guide To Ice Axes
An ice axe is an essential piece of kit to carry in the winter hills and mountains. Its job is to help reduce the chance of slips and trips while crossing snow and ice and to aid the arrest of a fall. However, it can’t do this by itself. There is no point in carrying an ice axe if you have no clue how to use one. Make sure you get proper instruction and lots of practice before relying on your skills out in the winter hills – it might just save your life.
A footpath that is a doddle in the summer can become treacherous in snow and ice. If you are walking in the winter then your axe can add security when traversing steep ground or, more importantly, mitigate the consequences of a fall.
Ice axes are essentially made up of a shaft (handle), a pick (with teeth), an adze (a flat piece of horizontal metal at the back) and a spike at the base for plunging into snow. Traditionally, the adze was used for cutting steps in snow and ice before crampons were invented.
Longer, straight shafted ice axes are ideal for hill walking, shorter ones for mountaineering with an increased curve in the pick for moving up steeper ground. These can be paired with a hammer for mountaineering. Shorter lightweight axes are ideal for running or ski mountaineering while short, aggressively curved tools are specifically designed for steep rock and ice. Picks can be swapped depending on the type of terrain, or even the type of ice you are climbing on.
Take a look on the shaft of your axe and you might see a circle containing either the letter T or the letter B. Modern axes will show either the number 1 or number 2. This information tells you how your ice axe is rated that is; the strength of the shaft and the pick. B or 1 tools are suitable for glacier travel, ski mountaineering and winter walking where light weight is important. T or 2 are technical tools designed to have a higher strength pick and shaft making them suitable for technical ice and mixed climbing involving torque placements. On modular technical tools both the shaft and picks are rated separately.
If you are heading out for a winter walk on gently sloped terrain then a walking axe with a longer straight shaft and gently curved pick for smooth self-arrest will be what to look for. Once you move onto steeper terrain then a mountaineering axe with a more curved shaft will allow you to turn the head of the axe and plunge the pick into steeper ground for additional security. Be aware, however, the more aggressive the curve of the pick the more abrupt your self-arrest will be so be sure to practice.
As we mentioned at the start, an ice axes’ job is to help reduce the chance of slips and trips while crossing snow and ice so you would expect a longer shaft to be a good thing. However, your axe is also there to aid the arrest of a slip, slide or fall. A shorter shaft makes this easier and therefore a compromise has to be made. If you’re not sure what size to go for – come in and ask.
Once you get into winter/mixed or ice climbing then a compact, curved tool with a specific handle and grip rest will offer knuckle protection, ease of placement and allows you to work around more featured ice or mixed terrain.
For ice cragging and steep mixed climbing; aggressive specialised tools with ergonomic handgrips, reverse curve picks and optional weights allow for precise pick placement. However, their unique shape means they are not designed to be plunged into snow and they have limitations when approaching routes.
Leashes are designed to secure the ice axe should you drop it. Dropping an ice axe can have serious consequences in any winter environment but there are some situations where climbers choose to go leashless.
Winter is a harsh environment - tools can and will break. If your tools are modular, carry a spare pick as these are most at risk of damage or failure. It is important to check critical areas at the start of the winter season. Always store your axes dry.
Want to know more? Please read our full buyer's guide to Ice Axes on our Blog.
Outdoor Gear Chat Podcast
Listen to British Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams chat about how to choose an ice axe: