DMM Wallnut Set 1-11 and DMM Torque Nut 1-4 Set
This nut set makes either for a great start-up set to kickstart your rack or for those wishing to replace a whole new set of wires and larger hexes. Comprising of both Wallnuts and Torque Nuts, this cost effective package provides a whole heap of nut protection.
DMM Wallnut Set 1-11:
Wallnuts are a long established favourite across the world. This classic wired nut has a carefully designed shape that gives you the best possible chance of getting a good solid placement every time. The DMM Wallnuts offer a good range and security of placement thanks to their innovative design which is born from hours of use on Welsh rock. The quality of build obtained from DMM's North Wales factory means that the Wallnuts can stand up to repeated abuse on a crag and still hold a fall at the end of the day thanks to their unique curved shape. The unique shape and strong wire also allows you to place the nuts easily and quickly.
DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4:
These cleverly shaped hexes will fit a huge range of placements. The DMM Torque Nuts are designed to act almost like a cam, pivoting to create a stronger placement, just like the original Hexes. Although Torque Nuts can be used as a wide wedge, their biggest advantage is based on the camming principle of the original hexes. Keeping the all-important pivot points but with a modern redesign, DMM have created a excellent piece of passive protection kit that is immensely strong and very light. Rated at 14kN this equates to holding approx a 1.4 tonne static load. Just four sizes cover a very large range of placements. They are also colour coded and anodised for recognition and to protect from corrosion.
Skilful placement of Torque Nuts will work in some places where cams simply aren't as effective. An important consideration is that cams point load the rock while Torque Nuts spread the load more effectively - the greater the area of the nut in contact with the rock the wider this load is spread. Bear this in mind if climbing on soft rock for example and to maximise the nut's holding power. Torque Nuts will also be the choice of protection for iced-up cracks over a spring loaded cam. The Torque Nuts have a double Dyneema sling arrangement that allows you to easily minimise rope drag but without them bashing you in the knees when they are racked. An indented groove on the top of the nut protects the sling from abrasion.
Buyers Guide - How to choose Choose a Traditional Climbing RackExcited to be buying the first bits of lead gear to build your trad rack? So are we!
Our climbing gear walls have been described as some of the best in Europe (by our International Reps who know a thing or two) and as boulderers, sport climbers, trad climbers and mountaineers ourselves we LOVE to talk about gear. Both the Joe Brown shops, and The Climbers Shop have been supplying climbers and expeditions since 1966 and 1959 respectively, we were founded by climbers and the only thing we love more than talking about gear is actually going climbing ourselves. We don’t just learn about what’s the best kit to use – we know what’s the best kit to use……..
- What is the first piece of protection I should buy?- What length Quickdraws are best?- Why are there so many different lengths slings?- How do I choose which karabiners to add?- Can I lead if I don’t own any cams?- Do I really need to carry Prusik Loops?- How do I know when my gear has worn out?
Top tips to make the right choice:Go shopping with your mate and/or someone more experienced so you buy the right thing for the routes you climb and, more importantly, gear that compliments each other’s racks.
Tag your gear so that you know who’s is who. We sell purpose made tags or you could use your own personal design of insulation tape.
Buy a length of rope off the reel and practice your knots so they become second nature. Tying a clove hitch one handed without bending your fingers looks REALLY cool!
Regularly tie yourself to a stair banister so you can prefect your belaying skills and be super slick out on the crag. It saves time and means you can enjoy the route and make it back to the pub to revel in your success.
Join a club – it’s the cheapest way to learn and you’ll have an instant pool of climbing partners or hire an Instructor or Guide to learn loads of great tips and techniques.