DMM Wallnut Set 1-11 and DMM Torque Nut 1-4 Set
This nut set makes either for a great start-up set to kickstart your rack or for those wishing to replace a whole new set of wires and larger hexes. Comprising of both Wallnuts and Torque Nuts, this cost effective package provides a whole heap of nut protection.
DMM Wallnut Set 1-11:
Wallnuts are a long established favourite across the world. This classic wired nut has a carefully designed shape that gives you the best possible chance of getting a good solid placement every time. The DMM Wallnuts offer a good range and security of placement thanks to their innovative design which is born from hours of use on Welsh rock. The quality of build obtained from DMM's North Wales factory means that the Wallnuts can stand up to repeated abuse on a crag and still hold a fall at the end of the day thanks to their unique curved shape. The unique shape and strong wire also allows you to place the nuts easily and quickly.
DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4:
These cleverly shaped hexes will fit a huge range of placements. The DMM Torque Nuts are designed to act almost like a cam, pivoting to create a stronger placement, just like the original Hexes. Although Torque Nuts can be used as a wide wedge, their biggest advantage is based on the camming principle of the original hexes. Keeping the all-important pivot points but with a modern redesign, DMM have created a excellent piece of passive protection kit that is immensely strong and very light. Rated at 14kN this equates to holding approx a 1.4 tonne static load. Just four sizes cover a very large range of placements. They are also colour coded and anodised for recognition and to protect from corrosion.
Skilful placement of Torque Nuts will work in some places where cams simply aren't as effective. An important consideration is that cams point load the rock while Torque Nuts spread the load more effectively - the greater the area of the nut in contact with the rock the wider this load is spread. Bear this in mind if climbing on soft rock for example and to maximise the nut's holding power. Torque Nuts will also be the choice of protection for iced-up cracks over a spring loaded cam. The Torque Nuts have a double Dyneema sling arrangement that allows you to easily minimise rope drag but without them bashing you in the knees when they are racked. An indented groove on the top of the nut protects the sling from abrasion.
Buyers Guide To Choosing a Trad Climbing Rack
Excited to be buying the first bits of lead gear to build your trad rack? So are we! The only thing we love more than talking about gear is going climbing ourselves. We don’t just learn about what’s the best kit to use – we know what’s the best kit to use……..
As you climb more, you’ll discover that different routes and different types of rock accommodate different shapes of gear from different manufacturers, so it’s always worth having a mix on your harness. Nuts are ideal for placing in tapered cracks. If you have the means, then the DMM Nut set 3 is a great place to start. Offset nuts offer a different shape, and hex’s are great for protecting parallel cracks. Oh, and make sure you buy a nut key. No one likes leaving shiny new gear on a route.
Having a collection of extenders of different lengths makes life a lot easier when it comes to reducing rope drag. Quickdraw packs can be a cost-effective option, but go for a pack with differing lengths.
A couple of 120cm slings and a 240cm sling will cover most needs. They come in different colours, which can be handy to quickly identify the length.
Karabiner packs offer great value for money. Wiregates are lighter weight, larger karabiners can be easier to handle, some snapgates are designed to lock for added safety, and there is often a choice of bent or straight gate. Bent gate karabiners can be easier to open – but that means an ill-clipped bent gate karabiner can be opened by a rope too, so if in doubt, go with straight gates. You will need some screwgate karabiners for rigging belays as well. HMS style allows for knotted ropes and slings to clip easily.
When well placed, cams like Wild Country Friends, DMM Dragon Cams, BD Camelots, etc, will make a great addition to your rack, protecting parallel and slightly flared cracks. 0.3 – 3 (Wild Country and Black Diamond) or 00 – 5 (DMM) are good sizes to start with.
Carry Prusik Loops! Whether you make your own or buy some Beal Jammies, Prusiks can save you a WORLD of trouble when things don’t quite go to plan. Use one clipped to your leg loop while you abseil to protect from a fall or to take your weight when hair or clothing gets wrapped in your belay device. They are also very handy for getting yourself out of a sticky situation with a scared second, a jammed rope, crossing a rope knot in a 180m abseil and rescuing a cragfast sheep. We speak from experience!
Climbing loads will wear out your lovely shiny new kit. In fact, even if you don’t climb, your harness, slings, extenders, etc, all have a shelf life and will need to be inspected and possibly replaced. There are loads of top tips in the knowledge section of our
Joe Brown Outdoor Academy website on how to inspect your climbing gear.
Outdoor Gear Chat Podcast
Take a listen to our Outdoor Gear Chat podcast Episode 7, when Cathy and Wayne were joined by British Mountain Guide Libby Peter to discuss what gear to select for your first rack.