Buyers Guide To Choosing a Trad Climbing Rack
Excited to be buying the first bits of lead gear to build your trad rack? So are we! The only thing we love more than talking about gear is going climbing ourselves. We don’t just learn about what’s the best kit to use – we know what’s the best kit to use……..
As you climb more, you’ll discover that different routes and different types of rock accommodate different shapes of gear from different manufacturers, so it’s always worth having a mix on your harness. Nuts are ideal for placing in tapered cracks. If you have the means, then the DMM Nut set 3 is a great place to start. Offset nuts offer a different shape, and hex’s are great for protecting parallel cracks. Oh, and make sure you buy a nut key. No one likes leaving shiny new gear on a route.
Having a collection of extenders of different lengths makes life a lot easier when it comes to reducing rope drag. Quickdraw packs can be a cost-effective option, but go for a pack with differing lengths.
A couple of 120cm slings and a 240cm sling will cover most needs. They come in different colours, which can be handy to quickly identify the length.
Karabiner packs offer great value for money. Wiregates are lighter weight, larger karabiners can be easier to handle, some snapgates are designed to lock for added safety, and there is often a choice of bent or straight gate. Bent gate karabiners can be easier to open – but that means an ill-clipped bent gate karabiner can be opened by a rope too, so if in doubt, go with straight gates. You will need some screwgate karabiners for rigging belays as well. HMS style allows for knotted ropes and slings to clip easily.
When well placed, cams like Wild Country Friends, DMM Dragon Cams, BD Camelots, etc, will make a great addition to your rack, protecting parallel and slightly flared cracks. 0.3 – 3 (Wild Country and Black Diamond) or 00 – 5 (DMM) are good sizes to start with.
Carry Prusik Loops! Whether you make your own or buy some Beal Jammies, Prusiks can save you a WORLD of trouble when things don’t quite go to plan. Use one clipped to your leg loop while you abseil to protect from a fall or to take your weight when hair or clothing gets wrapped in your belay device. They are also very handy for getting yourself out of a sticky situation with a scared second, a jammed rope, crossing a rope knot in a 180m abseil and rescuing a cragfast sheep. We speak from experience!
Climbing loads will wear out your lovely shiny new kit. In fact, even if you don’t climb, your harness, slings, extenders, etc, all have a shelf life and will need to be inspected and possibly replaced. There are loads of top tips in the knowledge section of our
Joe Brown Outdoor Academy website on how to inspect your climbing gear.
Outdoor Gear Chat Podcast
Take a listen to our Outdoor Gear Chat podcast Episode 7, when Cathy and Wayne were joined by British Mountain Guide Libby Peter to discuss what gear to select for your first rack.