Types of Climbing Helmet
Modern climbing helmets are available in three main construction styles: hardshell, moulded and hybrid.
Hardshell helmets use a durable outer shell combined with an internal cradle. Modern versions are much lighter than the traditional helmets once used by climbers and are known for their durability. They are particularly suited to mountaineering and trad climbing where robustness is important.
Moulded helmets use a thin polycarbonate outer shell with a shock-absorbing EPS (expanded polystyrene) core. They are lightweight and often have excellent ventilation, making them ideal for sport climbing and lightweight alpine adventures. However, they are generally less durable than hardshell designs.
Hybrid helmets combine the benefits of both technologies. A robust outer shell is combined with an EPS or EPP (expanded polypropylene) foam core, offering a good balance of protection, durability and weight. Hybrid designs are suitable for a wide range of climbing activities.
Can I Use Another Sports Helmet?
Generally, you should use a helmet specifically designed and tested for climbing. Ski, cycling, watersports and rope-access helmets are tested against different risks and impact types.
Some helmets are certified for multiple activities. Always check the safety information and markings on the helmet to ensure it is approved for climbing.
How Are Climbing Helmets Tested?
Climbing helmets sold in the UK must meet relevant safety requirements, including EN 12492 and UIAA 106 standards. Helmets are tested to determine how much force is transmitted to the head during impacts and must also provide protection against penetration from sharp objects.
Some manufacturers offer additional technologies, such as MIPS, which is designed to help reduce rotational forces during certain impacts.
Getting the Right Fit
Fit is one of the most important considerations when buying a climbing helmet. Many helmets are available in different sizes, which can be selected by measuring your head circumference. However, head shape also affects the fit, so trying different helmets is essential.
Look for a helmet that sits securely without creating uncomfortable pressure points. If you wear a ponytail or plan to wear a hat underneath your helmet, try it on in the configuration you will actually use when climbing.
Features to Consider
Think about where and how you climb when choosing your helmet.
For ice climbing, you may want a model that accepts a visor. For mountaineering and winter climbing, check that the helmet is compatible with your headtorch and goggles.
Other useful features include ponytail-friendly adjustment systems, different cradle designs and good ventilation. Some children's helmets are also certified for cycling, potentially providing greater versatility.
When Should You Replace Your Helmet?
Climbing helmets are classed as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), and their materials can deteriorate over time, even when they have not been used. Always follow the manufacturer's recommended lifespan and replace the helmet when it reaches the end of that period.
A helmet should also be replaced immediately after significant impact or if you find cracks, deformation, burns, excessive wear or chemical contamination. Check the shell, internal components, cradle, adjustment system and chin strap for damage.
If only the internal padding has become worn or unpleasant, replacement padding may be available, meaning you may not need to replace the entire helmet.
Top Tips
The best climbing helmet is one that fits comfortably and securely. Try several different styles before buying and make sure the helmet works with your hair, hat and other equipment.
A brightly coloured helmet can also make you easier to spot in an emergency.
Most importantly, choose a helmet you are comfortable wearing. The more comfortable it is, the more likely you are to wear it every time you climb.