14/02/2009 13:35:00

Words by tcsh

Winter Climbing Report - Bowfell Buttress, Grade V, 6


Bowfell butress   Bryan Wakely & Andy Charlton, Wednesday 4th Feb


My climbing partner Andy and I headed up the band into the mist at 9ish, and after struggling to find the start of the route, I got on the 1st pitch at 11am. The conditions were ideal, neve on the ledges, blobs of ice and bomber turf. The rock was also not to hoared up either, which made finding and placing gear much easier. We finally topped out just after 5pm, after being held up by another team in front of us, which made it quite a sociable climb, as there were good belay ledges all the way up. The crux on the 3rd pitch felt quite strenuous, but there was plenty of protection, and a big ledge just below, so it didn’t feel to intimidating. All in all though, we both thought the final pitch was by far the best, as it involved some fine exposed moves using good hooks and torques all the way up, with just enough gear to not make it feel desperate.