14/02/2009 14:31:00

Words by tcsh

Winter Climbing report - Black Crag Icefall, Dovedale (IV, 4)

 Black Crag

Sunday 8th Feb

Climber Bryan Wakeley

Dovedale

Having heard reports that the classic Innaccessible gully on dove crag was in condition, Simon, Ian and I headed over kirkstone again.  Unfortunately, many other people had heard the news, and when we got to the route, there was a queue at the bottom.  It looked to be in fine condition.  Instead of waiting for ages, we soloed up South gully which was full of ice and neve, and around grade 2 ish.
As a consolation though, we managed to climb Black crag icefall (IV,4), which was in great shape, with nice features ice, that wasn’t to brittle.  We climbed it in two long pitches, which felt quite run out, as we had only brought 3 ice screws with us.