The North Wales Limestone area is a uniquely varied place to climb: there can be few other venues in the UK with such a diverse range of climbing styles co-existing side-by-side within such a concentrated area. From single pitch trad cragging to font 8B bouldering, remote multi-pitch sea cliff adventures on loose guano-covered rock to French 8c’s on immaculate well-equipped sport crags, ‘designer-danger’ hybrid routes to easy access entry-level grade 4 and 5 sport climbs - all of these exist within walking distance on The Great and Little Ormes, sometimes on the same crag!
The nature of the terrain here dictates that routes often rely on fixed equipment to be climbable and the ethic of bolting on NW limestone is open-minded and practical - this is just as true for the great trad climbing as it is the sport routes. Thousands of non-stainless bolts were placed on sport and trad routes during the 80s and 90s.
However, the marine environment isn’t kind to any non-stainless equipment and, unfortunately, the bolts and pegs placed back then have become dangerous liabilities. Most of the cliffs here are coastal, routes are often at sea-level or not far above.